Moving Floor Lamps

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Target and Walmart sell millions of these cheap floor lamps, and beginning movers and do-it-yourselfers break these every day.

Since they are long and relatively light, the intuitive thing is to to lay them horizontally, high in a tier.

Don’t lay down a floor lamp this way!; And along the side of the truck is not a tier !!!

Don’t lay down a floor lamp this way!; And along the side of the truck is not a tier !!!

The problem is they are very cheap to buy for a reason—they are very cheaply made!  The round base is screwed into two or three poles, all screwed together, and then finally screwed into the light at the top.  If you assemble the lamp and stand it up vertically, then okay, it will probably hold together.  But turn it on its side and lay it down . . . Good luck!  The screw rings are a marvel of “Value Engineering,” meaning they are designed as cheaply as possible.  And “designed as cheaply as possible” means only designed to stand up, not to lay horizontally.

Each of the screw-together points is a weak point where breakage is possible, even likely.  In my experience, when these are moved in the lay-down fashion, the most common breakage point is where the round floor base connects to the first pole.  This round floor base often snaps off the first pole, and the lamp will stand straight no more!

The only safe way to move these is to tie them against the wall.

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Since the lamps are fragile even while standing, we are using a lighter-than-usual pad to cover the top of the lamp.  Instead of a regular quilted pad, we are usually a light blanket (actually a “U-haul” blanket which a customer left us)  You could get by, by tying it to the wall uncovered, but then the metal lamp fixture would rub against the truck wall and likely leave marks on the lamp.

In two decades I have never seen a floor lamp damaged when tied to the wall in this fashion, but have seen them damaged countless times when laid down at the top of a tier.

An Unusual China Cabinet

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I haven’t seen a china cabinet like this before–both for its shape and for its color. Most china cabinets are rectangular-shaped and are boring to me personally (but I don’t know if the purpose of traditional china cabinets is to “be interesting!”)

My Designer friends would better be able to categorize this furniture style. Is the arch-design evocative of a church, or of a stained-glass design you might see in a church? I do feel it has an uplifting air to it. Most rectangular china cabinets have a heavy, monolithic feel to them like having a Walmart in your dining room. This one has a different feel to it. You want to look at it first, and only secondly think about putting china in it!

What is that color? I should find out–someone tell me if they know. For some reason it reminds me of the color you would see on a theater set.

SOME TECHNICAL MOVING DETAILS:

Like most large china cabinets, it is two-piece. But the shape of the top piece makes it easier to move than the standard rectangular china cabinet top-piece. The standard rectangular top piece is an unbalanced monstrosity that can be very difficult for two men to carry. The top usually has a crown that flares out, so the top is wider than the bottom. It rolls on a 4-wheel dolly, but not with perfect balance. This top-piece of this arched cabinet on the other hand, is about the same width at the top as at the bottom. It carries relatively easily and balances rather well on a 4-wheel dolly. Because of it’s considerable height, the best or only way to get it through a doorway is on a 4-wheel dolly. When we carried it into the house, there was a plastic child-fence blocking the hallway, and there wasn’t room to lift it over the fence, so we first removed the child-fence with some difficulty.

Instead of having long glass shelves that go the whole width of the piece, each shelf is divided into two pieces. This makes the glass easier to move and easier to remove and install–another advantage of the piece!

TIP: Use a 4-wheel dolly to move the top piece of china cabinets, especially through doorways.